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The jewel of the South Pacific
that's PRD Apr 2, 2008 Daniel Schwarz View: 602

Palau Island is one of God's most perfect creations.

   Some places need no introduction. They are so famous that merely mentioning their name is enough to provoke rapture in those who have visited, and envy in those who have not. Admittedly, Palau is not one of these places. But it should be.
   Palau, a small Pacific island nation, is more likely to produce blank stares than any kind of reverence. So I set out to find more about Palau. While it certainly wouldn't have the historical glamour of Easter Island, Palau really is paradise. It is famous among Pacific travelers for its stunning variety of ocean life. While I was excited by this fact, I was still skeptical. But these nagging doubts were dispelled before we even hit the tarmac in Palau.
   After hours of nothing but uninterrupted ocean panoramas, the outer reef of Palau appeared on the horizon. This thin blue line is all that separates the islands of Palau from the vastness of the Pacific Ocean. The islands seemed like a small miracle, fragile and improbable specks of land emerging precariously from the ocean. The archipelago stretched across the ocean for almost 100 kilometers, anchored on either end by large islands. As we came closer, I realized that sandwiched in between these larger islands were literally hundreds of smaller ones. These, I was told, are the famous Rock Islands. Seen from above, they ranged from tiny, perfectly circular droplets to long, meandering squiggles. Closer still, the islands revealed a maze of shallow interior reefs, channels, isolated beaches and hidden saltwater lakes. 
   It was the kind of breathtaking panorama that evokes desert island fantasies. The islands, with their endless coves, passageways and inlets, had enough room for a planeload of Robinson Crusoes to live out their lives unaware of each other. It seemed as if they were begging to be explored. This was good news for us, because, unlike most visitors, we had not come to scuba dive. Instead, we were here to sea kayak in the Rock Islands.
   To help us explore this paddling paradise, we chose Planet Blue Sea Kayak Tours, a company founded by marine biologist Ron Leidich, who has dedicated his life to exploring and understanding the Rock Islands. He told us about Palau's stunningly rich underwater environment. Its waters are home to one of the most biodiverse marine ecosystems in the world, with 600 varieties of coral and over 1,500 species of fish. Best of all, from our perspective, most of the Rock Islands are fringed by shallow coral reefs, making them an ideal place to snorkel. So, armed with snorkeling masks and kayaks, we set out to explore. 
   The Rock Islands were just as spectacular from the water as they had been from the air. We found a nearly endless variety of forests, sea caves, and reefs to explore, sometimes all within a few hundred meters of each other. Like the tropical weather, the sights from our kayaks changed dramatically and unexpectedly. An eerily quiet channel between two islands might open suddenly onto a palm-fringed beach. The contrast between life underwater and above water was stunning. While above the water in our kayaks we might see craggy limestone cliffs and rugged vistas, one quick hop in the water could reveal a cornucopia of boldly colored sea life.
   Perhaps the most magical spots in Palau are the saltwater lakes that lie hidden in the Rock Islands. Sometimes accessible only by tidal caves, these lakes are worlds unto themselves. One lake, reachable via a short but arduous hike through the jungle, is filled with thousands of jellyfish. Isolated from the ocean, these creatures have lost their ability to sting; they have evolved and now have a symbiotic relationship with algae that allows them to literally harvest the sunlight. Swimming with these jellyfish is an experience not to be missed.
   After a week of unbelievable sights, I was a convert. Palau really was a tropical paradise. I didn't care about all the blank looks I would get when I told people where I'd been. I didn't care if it would make terrible dinner conversation. In the end I realized that, famous or unknown, Palau was a trip I would never forget.

GETTING THERE
Continental Airlines runs two flights a week (Wednesday & Saturday) from Manila to Palau. Prices start at USD700 a roundtrip. Numerous flights are also available from Guangzhou to Manila, including China Southern. There are also daily flights to Palau from Guam island.

WHERE TO STAY
Palau, alas, is not cheap. The Palau Pacific Resort ?offers beachside rooms from around USD250 per night. The Carolines Resort has ace hillside bungalows for USD150 a night. Visit www.visit-palau.com for more information.

WHAT TO DO
Planet Blue Kayak Sea Tours is probably the best place to arrange your sea adventures. Full day trips run at USD85 a person. They can be contacted ?directly via Sam's Tours?before your arrival.(www.samstours.com).

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