Amble through this ancient town in Shanxi Province.

   First light in Shanxi. The carriage window reveals a horizon broken by enormous red, blue and white characters on low brick hamlets. The fields are dusty and devoid of tractors; the air is perfumed by the Lao Chen Vinegar brewery. As the train nears the city of Pingyao, this groggy tourist feels that she is journeying back in time – or to a China of the imagination.
   Indeed, Pingyao embodies what many foreigners hope to find in China. It's a jewel of Ming and Qing architecture with elegant courtyard homes, stellar temples and a complete city wall. This physical beauty is the fruit of Pingyao's eventful history. Strategically located at the crossroads of the Han heartland, the town grew wealthy in imperial times through commerce and banking. In 1824, native son Lei Lutai opened China's first draft bank, the Sunrise Prosperity Draft Bank. The city was China's financial capital during the 19th century – local bankers even provided loans to the Dowager Empress Cixi. Pingyao's fortunes collapsed in the early 20th century when the banking industry migrated to Shanghai.
   Pingyao slept inside its walled cocoon until 1997, when UNESCO declared it a "World Heritage Site" and the city was reborn as a tourist mecca.
   Pingyao is perfect for ambling. The spectacular city wall ranges from six to ten meters in height and three to five meters in width. Over six kilometers in length, it sports 72 watchtowers and 3,000 parapets that give it a "tortoise" shape. Walking the wall provides sweeping views of the fields outside the city and the teeming streets. Likewise, the inner city is best discovered on foot. The Ming dynasty courtyard homes – many of them transformed into guesthouses and restaurants – sport beautiful carved wooden facades and painted signs.The Taoist and Confucian temples are hard to miss – less so the fascinating Catholic church on a somnolent back alley. Shoppers will flock with delight to the innumerable piles of pretty handmade souvenirs, notably folk crafts from the countryside. 
   Pingyao knows that the way to a tourist's heart is through his stomach. City restaurants cater to foreign tastes with endless variations on the banana pancake theme. But you are well advised to try the local fare. Shanxi noodles come in hundreds of varieties, but don't get clever and order some Yuncheng specialty – try instead Pingyao's kao lao lao, dense noodles steamed in a tubular shape served in their bamboo steamer. Go native and pour Old Chen vinegar on everything, then chew on some pickled garlic. Beware, however, of Pingyao's "Champion" beef, which smells as though it has been doused in petrol.
   When you hunger for broader horizons, ask your guesthouse to ?arrange a daytrip with a car and driver. One popular destination is the Qiao Family Courtyard that garnered cinematic fame as the set of Zhang Yimou's 'Raise the Red Lantern'. But if you only have time for one ancient mansion with prison-like women's quarters, let it be the lesser-known, more impressive Wang Family Courtyard.
   It is commonly held that the best time to discover Pingyao is in spring, and this is true. Pingyao's unique charms and native pleasures really come out when its tourist persona is resting. It's the perfect escape from the Pearl River region's hustle and bustle. And, after winding through the twisty old-world streets, the red lanterns of your courtyard mansion will beckon you home to a peaceful dreamy sleep.

WHERE TO STAY

Most double rooms at local guesthouses cost 250-300RMB per night. There are plenty around, but try these:
*Dejuyuan Folk-style Guesthouse: 0354 568 5266/6942 (www.pydjy.net)
*Tian Yuan Kui Guesthouse 0354 568 0069 (www.pytyk.com)
*Yi'de Guesthouse 0354 568 5988 (www.yide-hotel.com)

HANDY HINTS

*There are no ATMs in Pingyao, so carry some cash with you at all times.
*A museum pass (120RMB/concessions 60RMB) will be mandatory if you want to see any of the town's fabulous 19 ancient attractions.

For more travel info visit:
www.pingyaotrip.com